How To Install A Dual Battery Switch On A Boat
Uncomplicated dual bombardment switch.
The dual battery switch is the simplest and easiest to construct. It is appropriate for the boater that just wants to "day-boat" but wants the safety of having a backup battery on lath. The typical boater might be a trailer boater that wants to ballast out for the solar day with the stereo and other electronics running, and wants to ensure they accept a spare bombardment to restart the engine in the event they drain their primary battery.
In this configuration, a dual battery switch is connected to the engine battery terminal, and a second battery added. This is near as simple every bit it gets, and is an effective setup. Yet, some bombardment management subject area must be excersized.
The typical bombardment direction scenario consists of placing the dual battery switch in the one position, and running the boat for the solar day. The side by side day, switch the battery switch to the 2 position and run the boat. This alternating of the batteries daily will ensure both batterys get excersized and periodically charged.
If 1 bombardment dies when y'all are boating, just movement the battery switch to the other battery and proceed on your way.
Annotation that simply the battery that is in operation volition be charged. The second bombardment will remain completely disconnected. Therefore the reasoning backside the daily alternating of the batteries is to ensure both batteries obtain a periodic charge, also as detect if a battery is bad.
It is possible to accuse both batteries by placing the selector switch into the both position. And, if in the both position, both batteries will start the engine. However, the both position should only be used in an emergency, since the risk is that one time the engine is shut down, if the selector switch remains in the both position, the batteries remain continued in parallel. In this situation, both batteries will exist discharged when you are at anchor and run the stereo - which defeats the idea of installing a backup bombardment. So if y'all use this arroyo, be sure to take the battery switch out of the both position when you shut the engine downward. Otherwise you could finish up with two discharged batteries.
Some discussion of switches are in order. Historically, the bombardment switch, known as a "1B2 Switch" had a position for Battery 1, Both Batteries, Battery 2, and OFF. This switch provided the power to use Battery 1, Battery 2, both batteries in parallel, and completely disconnecting the batteries.
Positions for a 1-Both-two Battery Switch
Recently, a newer type of bombardment switch has been invented; the Engine-Firm switch. This switch differs in that it'south intended purpose is to accept a separate battery for the engine and house circuits. "House" more often than not ways the boat's DC power needs for lights, electronics, fresh water pump, and and so on - basically everything not engine related. This swith also has a "combine" or emergency position where both batteries are paralleled. This provides the same advantage as the 1B2 switch in that a second bombardment can be used for engine started. Withal, the disadvantage is that potentially you could be using both batteries at the same time, without strictly having a fresh bombardment in reserve.
Positions for an Engine-Firm Bombardment Switch
As shown beneath, using an Engine-House type switch requires a modification to the existing boat's wiring, as yous have to separate the gunkhole'due south business firm circuits from the engine circuits, as well as calculation a main breaker for the house system. This adds complexity, and may be beyond the capability of many boat owners. Fortunately regardless of your choice, both 1B2 and East-H switch configurations volition provide satisfactory results.
Other switch considerations: If a bombardment becomes disconnected from the alternator while the engine is running, this open excursion can damage the alternator/regulator. For this reason, if you want the ability to switch from bombardment to battery, you lot must obtain a switch that has "make-before-break" contacts. While virtually switches do, not all of them are this way, and so you need to ensure the switch is of this type. A make-before-suspension contact makes the connection to the side by side position earlier breaking the connection of the previous position. This ensures there is e'er a battery connected to the alternator. Even so, you lot must never turn the switch into the OFF position with the engine running, as this obvously disconnects the batteries as well, too damaging the alternator/regulator.
Some switches also have a field disconnect set of contacts. This alleviates the make-earlier-break problem by temporarily disconnecting the alternator field as the switch is rotated. Nevertheless, this likewise requires an alternator having external field disconnect terminals, and properly wired to the switch. I do not believe this to exist a common setup, and most of the time, ensuring a make-earlier-pause switch is used (and never selecting the OFF position) is what is common.
Ignition proofing. Once again, according to 33CFR183.410, all components within the engine compartment must be ignition proof. This term means the component is non capable of making a spark, or any spark that is generated is contained inside the device. This prevents the likelyhood of an explosion in the engine compartment. Therefore, if you place the switch in the engine compartment, it must be ignition proof rated. Almost, only not all battery switches are ignition proof rated.
When locating the 2d battery, we again refer to our friend 33CFR183.420, which specifys how a battery must be secured. Substantially, the bombardment must be secured so that it does not move more than ane inch when a force of 90lbs is applied from whatsoever direction. It must be noted that this regulation is a chip defective when it comes to the large Trojan golf-cart blazon batteries that are sometimes used for house circuits. These batteries were beyond the telescopic of the regulation when it was written. These batteries are so heavy that the 90lb force test may not be applicable, and may need further securing. Use mutual sense when installing the batteries, and retrieve that the USCG regulation is the minimum requirements. You can use a more secure mounting method if you lot wish.
33CFR183 as well states that the battery must not be located direct above or beneath any fuel tank, fuel filter, or fuel line fitting. In addition, whatsoever metallic fuel line within 12 inches of the battery must exist shielded with dielectric material (and then you don't short information technology out on the battery terminals, I suppose).
When wiring two batteries, you must ground both batteries at a common footing at the engine. It is not satisfactory to run a unmarried basis wire to one battery and tap to the other battery. While 33CFR183.415 is applicable for dual engines, it is common manufacture do - fifty-fifty with a single engine - to ground batteries at a common ground at the engine.
While it is poor practice, if you insist on using a mutual ground for both batteries, equally shown beneath, you must ensure that the ground wire to the engine block tin handle the increased current from both batteries. This typically requires re-running a much more expensive cablevision, so why not run a second cable from the new battery in the first place?
Finally, the bombardment must be fitted with insulated terminal mail covers or bombardment box to forestall contact with the positive terminal.
Home
Source: http://www.boat-project.com/tutorials/dualbatt1.htm
Posted by: mcnamaraentakeeke.blogspot.com
0 Response to "How To Install A Dual Battery Switch On A Boat"
Post a Comment